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If You Have Lived In Your House For 15 Years or More…Posted by Nicole on December 29th, 2022

Remember when you bought your home all those years ago? The seller replaced some things, and you did some work or replaced some things after you moved in… and then you went on autopilot because everything big was fixed! Ahhh…. how nice to just have to worry about changing your air filter for the heating/cooling system, testing & changing the batteries in your smoke & carbon monoxide alarms, clearing the gutters, and treating the moss on the roof every so often. Cruise control, commence!

Now, 10 or 15 years later, what is the condition of your home? If you decided to sell now, what kind of repairs would you have to do? What would need replacement? Let’s tap the breaks and come out of cruise control for a bit to evaluate the situation.

Normally, homeowners just fix things when it becomes a problem… which, for the most part, is fine. But what about when your water heater tells you its life is over by leaking water all over your basement or garage? Or your roof leaks (always seems to happen during a torrential downpour)? Or your furnace stops working (always on the coldest day of the year)? Perhaps it’s time to look at these things again- if nothing else, to give you an idea of when you might expect to replace these things.

We know that one-layer asphalt composition roofs (most common here) in the Portland area can last anywhere from 15-25 years. Water heaters generally last anywhere from 12-20 years. Furnaces usually go about 18-20 years before needing replacement. Replacing an old cooling system is a no-brainer because older, more environmentally destructive coolants are being phased out, and are therefore more expensive to recharge, making repairs or recharging older cooling systems silly in comparison to replacement. And kitchen appliances? Expected service lives are 10-12 years! Don’t get me started on those old toilets that waste gallons and gallons of water every time you flush! (Aaaaaand…. what if rodents made it into your attic or crawlspace and wreaked havoc? Or your exhaust fan came loose in the attic?)

It is important to keep in mind that the quality of components/construction, as well as use and maintenance also play a big part in how much time may be left: Four hot showers per day and four loads of laundry per week is going to wear much faster on a water heater than in a home where there are only two hot showers per week and one load of laundry or a part-time occupant (hello snowbirds).

With these rough service lives in mind, if you’ve owned your house for 10+ years and haven’t done much, you might benefit from looking up the ages of these components or hiring an inspector to look things over for you.

Let’s say you had ALL the mechanical equipment and appliances replaced when you bought your home… 15 years ago. That means the roof, water heater, cooling system, and kitchen appliances are likely nearing their final years (if not months) and the furnace has just a few years left. Wouldn’t it ne nice to be able to budget for these things or be proactive and replace them before greater damage is caused?

The good news is that newer mechanical equipment, fixtures, appliances, etc. are much more efficient than even 15 year old components, so you’ll be giving the earth a fist bump and saving on your monthly utilities. Some things can wait to be replaced, but other things may cause damage if you just let them tell you when they’re done!

A 15 year old asphalt composition roof
A 15 year old asphalt composition roof

How Important Is Attic Ventilation in the Winter?Posted by Nicole on February 26th, 2019

Many homeowners believe that ventilation is only important in the summer, but it is just as important in the winter! Did you know that the primary cause of ice dams is lack of ventilation, not necessarily lack of insulation?

Ice dams are barriers that occur near the gutters and eaves of the roof, causing water/ice to back up under the shingles at the drip edge. The cycle begins with heat being trapped in the attic (lack of exhaust ventilation) which traps heat in the upper attic near the ridge. This condition melts the snow/ice at the top portion of the roof and prevents the snow/ice from melting near the bottom of the roof (at eaves/overhangs). The melted snow/ice then runs down the roof and collects at the eaves where it freezes/refreezes, creating an ice dam.

Large snow events are rare in Portland, but severe ice damming can cause the shingles, roof sheathing, rafter/truss tails and top plate to be damaged. If not fixed, the damage can cause mold and mildew.

Although adding more insulation can slow down the heat transfer from the interior living space, the heat transfer will still occur and, without appropriate ventilation to take that warm air away, the ice dam will occur.

It is important to note that your attic should be very close to the exterior temperature! A well-ventilated, well-balanced ventilation system ideally keeps the top of the roof and the bottom side of the roof close to equal temperatures, eliminating the conditions required to form an ice dam.

Call me if you’d like an evaluation of the ventilation and insulation in your attic! Building science is my passion.


Ice dam

Diagram courtesy of Connell Insurance.

6 Reasons to Clean Your Furnace & DuctsPosted by admin on March 23rd, 2015

I recently had the ducts and furnace cleaned at my house. Why, you ask? Here are 6 reasons to clean your furnace & ducts:

1. The life of your furnace. Dirt slows down air movement and creates more resistance so that your furnace has to work harder, reducing the life of the equipment and ultimately costing you more money. This dirt gets stuck inside your ducts, furnace and a good portion gets stuck to your filter. (That means it is VERY important to change or clean your filter so that your furnace doesn’t have to work so hard to push the air through a filthy filter!)

2. Allergies and cleaner air. Even if you don’t have allergies, whatever is blowing around in the air can tickle your nose and get into your lungs. AaaaaahCHOO!

3. Breathe your own air. Especially if you’re moving into a new home, you don’t want to be breathing in someone else’s dust or dead skin, allergens/pollens, dirt and pet hair from 12 years ago. When years of build-up is camped out in your furnace and ducting, a lot of it can just be re-circulated into the air you breathe. Ewwwww!

4. Mold! Air has moisture. Moisture likes to stay in cozy areas. Cozy areas provide a nice home for mold. Where is pretty cozy in your house? Your heating ducts!

5. The secret is the filter. Have you done a remodeling project lately? Has there recently been road construction nearby your house? Any thing that increases particles in the air of your home means that at the very least, your filter probably needs to be changed. Those particles can fill up a filter faster than you think. Depending on how often you use your heating/cooling system,  the depth of your filter, your family’s daily life (smoking, allergies) and if you have pets, it should be changed every 1-3 months. When in doubt, change it out. It is MUCH cheaper to clean or change your filter regularly than to pay for a new furnace.

6. Less dust. If you’re like me, you have little time or energy left after a busy week to clean. Let your filter do the work- you can sit back and relax.

The following are photos of my furnace blower and return air duct the before and after it was cleaned. If I inspect a house and I see a dirty blower or ducts, I recommend cleaning. If I don’t see maintenance records for the furnace, I recommend a complete service.

Furnace blower after cleaning

Furnace blower after cleaning

Furnace blower before cleaning

Furnace blower before cleaning

clean return air duct

clean return air duct

Return duct before cleaning

Return duct before cleaning

Start saving money on energyPosted by admin on August 12th, 2014

Affordable Ways to Make Your House Healthier and Green

“It’s so expensive to do all the “green” things I want to do with my house!” While most of the greening things that get publicity are quite expensive such as solar panels, extra insulation or new windows, there are several things you can do that are affordable and easy. Here are just a few:

1. Paint with Low or Zero VOC paint. Cost: 20-50% more than conventional paint. “VOC” stands for Volatile Organic Compounds…which doesn’t sound like something I want in my house! Low- and No-VOC paint takes longer to dry (be especially careful about painting window sills and touching them with decor or window coverings), but doesn’t off gas. That means you’re not breathing in toxic chemicals when you walk into the room! VOCs are in many other products (several types of flooring/adhesives, upholstery fabrics, air fresheners, etc.), so the more you limit them from you house, the healthier you’ll be.

2. Change the filter(s) in your heating/cooling system. Cost: $4-$45+. Changing your filter regularly will help you in three ways. First, it will help your heating/cooling equipment to run more efficiently which prolongs the life of the system. It also saves energy (which saves you money) by not having to work so hard to push air through the system. Lastly, a clean filter does a better job of filtering out nasty stuff in the air you breathe. You don’t want  to be breathing in allergens and dust from months ago, do you? It’s best to follow manufacturer’s recommendations when it comes to the frequency at which you should change your filter, but it also depends on if you have pets, how much you use the system, etc. For an average household, I suggest changing filters once every two months. (More frequently if you have pets, allergies or if you use your system constantly.)

lightbulb color temperatures

Lightbulb color temperatures- cooler to warmer

3. Use Compact Fluorescent or LED lightbulbs. Cost: CFL $7+; LED $25+.  Incandescents are dead! Using more efficient bulbs simply saves energy which saves you money! Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) have a longer life (up to 10x), but are more expensive. Do you want to use energy efficient bulbs but hate that it makes your room look blue like WalMart? Your bulbs are too cool! Look for warmer bulbs- 2500K color temperature or lower. The higher the color temperature number, the more blue and stark the light is. A lower “K” number is better here.

4. Get a free Water Conservation Kit from Portland Water Bureau. Did I mention this is free? You can customize your kit to fit your needs or just order the whole shebang if you’re in the Portland area: call 503-823-4527 or email conserve@portlandoregon.gov

5. Install a programmable thermostat. Cost: $35+.  It doesn’t have to be fancy. as long as you can set the temperature to be different at different times of day and for different days of the week, you’ll save money and time by not babysitting the temperature. Don’t worry- you can always override the programmed temperature. A new thermostat may seem complicated, but it’s really quite simple- there are rarely more than 4 buttons to deal with and once you set it, you can forget it. Cheers to a healthier house!

Autumn Maintenance – get ready for the rain and cooler temperatures!Posted by admin on October 26th, 2012

It’s the time of year when we are forced to say goodbye to warm, dry weather and hello to cooler, wet weather. This means that you should make sure your home is weatherized and ready to go when you have to turn the heat on. Weatherizing your home can save you hundreds of dollars per year in energy costs and will make your living space much more comfortable. Follow these tips to prepare your home for fall!

Change your furnace air filter if you didn’t change it at the end of the summer. A dirty filter can make air flow difficult, which is hard on your furnace- it can reduce the life and cost you money before it was ready to be replaced. It’s also good to get the old particles from last season out of your house, especially if you have allergies.

Clean and inspect the gutters. Get rid of leaves & debris before the rains come along and clog up the system. Evaluate the overall condition of the gutters- be sure there are no leaks and that the drainage is away from the foundation.

Call the chimney sweep. Have a professional inspect and clean the chimney before you start a fire.

Verify that vents are open and unobstructed. It is a dangerous mistake to close off the vents in the crawlspace and attic. You are not keeping heat in but instead actively supporting mold growth. As humidity increases during fall and winter, ineffective ventilation prevents moisture from escaping and mold growth is usually the result. Though vents should be screened to keep out rodents, air should flow freely above the insulation in attics and below the insulation in crawlspaces.

Weatherstrip your windows. If you have old, original windows they can be quite drafty. Weatherstripping can save you considerable money in heating costs.

Disconnect garden hoses. Store hoses in the garage or a shed for the winter.